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Colors and Natural Dyes in Weaving in Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca

The weavers of this area are well known for their expertise. Most families start their children in this process at about 8 years of age introducing them to the components of weaving, including the wool, natural dyes, looms and techniques. We have been fortunate in being able to see a number of rugs both in the markets and at the weavers studios and homes. Edgar our guide on two occasions, has taken us to the studios of prominent artists of the area. On this tour we found out that he too is a weaver of Zapotec origin and started at age 8. At our first stop in this village we saw the process of natural dyes and a rug that Edgar had woven. Bellita was on the hunt for one for her home in Charlotte, N.C and we had seen several in one of the local Mercados and had started the negotiating process only to not be able to come to an equitable agreement with the vendor.

On this trip to the village itself, the first stop was to a coop where a number of weavers had their products. Here we learned about the dyes and the difference between those yarns dyed the traditional way and those the modern way. Modern not always being the best.

Many rugs from the village were sent to the US for sale. While the rugs was sold as traditional, we learned that they were not, but synthetic dyes were used, making it an easier process. The difference is that in the modern system the dyes have brighter colors. The natural dyes are muted based on the use of pigments obtained from pecan nut shells, browns, blues from the indigo plant, reds from the cocineal insect that grows on the cactus, and other such materials for other colors, and using citrus for one color and adding baking soda for alkaline produces a different color. The process is quite intense.

In the second weavers studio, Bellita found the rug of her dreams and bought it. The weaver is Juan Ramon Martinez Vazquez located at Av.Juarez No. 219 C. P. 70 20 in Teotitlan..

Oaxacan Textile Museum

 Wall inside Textile Museum.

 Hangings demonstrating local artisan weavings.

 More  of the talented weaver artists.

 Another example of this art form.

An example of indigo dye from the indigo plant.

The Textile Museum is a must see if visiting this city. The weavings are hung with an eye to the best display of the talent that abounds here.

The Tin Man

Wandering about the central district we came upon a window into a store and as we peered in to see what was there, the owner motioned for us to come around the corner for us to enter his shop. An old wooden door was opened and we entered into a large mostly empty unfinished building and in one corner was a studio and showroom. Here was the art gallery as well as the workshop for the Tin Man. His work was beautiful and intricate as you can see. I was, as usual, intrigued with his tools, as well as the process and finished product.

Mount Alban, Oaxaca

Our second tour brought us to this famous archaeological site that was inhabited over a period of 1500 years by a succession of people's from the Olmecs, Zapotecs and Mixtecs. After it's discovery and exploration it was reconstructed to show what it looked like when developed starting about 500 BC.

Our tour guide Edgar took us there in the morning when it was a bit cooler and not too crowded. We wandered about looking at the different structures and fields - ballcourt, cistern, buildings and views from  the top of the mountain that had been leveled to build the kings palaces and other areas as needed by these peoples.

At the entrance were vendors of hats and other items. The hats were important as it was hot and sunny. At the end we went to the museum and had close up looks of some of the artifacts..

Some photos follow.

O c u t l a n Mercado

The market in this city is very large and has vendors inside the building and many around it. We tasted a fruit - don't know it's name, looked at many shoes for sale, bread products, spices, chile's  of multiple sizes and colors,  and a dazzling array of all other products. The only market that comes close to this one in size and variety that I have seen at home is the San Jose flea market. It was hot and crowded as we made our way through.

We stopped at a bread vendor and saw half moon breads. Edgar our tour guide told us this was a special bread that one takes to one's father in law to show respect and suggested that we bring a bread to our next stop, the artist Zeny Fuentes, which we did to smiles and warm greetings.

One of the highlights of the market was meeting Frida Kahlo look alike who greets everyone with warmth and has her photo taken frequently.

Some photos of this experience follow.

Carved Animals

I have traveled to Oaxaca to see the abundant art that is part of this city and its surrounding villages.  The work that we see in the states that come from here is a small representation of what is offered. My plan was to see as much as possible. My sister Bellita, who lives in Charlotte, N.C. joined me for three weeks of my stay. We have started exploring the area.

Here are some photos of the studio and gallery of one of the foremost artists Zeny Fuentes, who carves the delightful painted animal figures. The painting is done by his wife, Reyna Pina and helpers. Repair work is done by others. Their studio is in San Martin Tilcojete, Oaxaca. The fourth is of the lizard that will come home with me.